2022 Criante 'G22' Contrada Modica' Grillo Sicilia IGT

100% Grillo from the east-facing Contrada Modica vineyard, planted in 2011.  360m above sea level, sedimentary soil with sandy topsoil.  Harvested at the end of August, the grapes were destemmed and free-run juice ferments spontaneously  and ages in stainless steel. A small amount of sulfur is added only at bottling. 6,000 bottles made.

Grillo has and perhaps still is having a little renaissance in Sicily. Normally used in Marsala, and therefore also native to this part of Sicily, the grape has a tendency to oxidize and become ‘fat’- it can develop an oil texture. Many producers counter this ‘issue’ by making a highly technical (stainless steel, cold fermentation, fined and filtered) wine, but unfortunately such manipulation turns Grillo into a generic Sauvignon Blanc-like wine. The best producers are able to coax out of the grape its true potential, letting it achieve some of that oily texture while maintaining its minerality. Grillo is a natural crossing between Catarratto and Zibbibo (Moscato) and in its best expressions maintains some of the floral and fruity Zibibbo aromatics. This is one of the best I’ve had in a long time- I cannot remember the last time I was this excited about a Grillo.

Sweet mint, wet stone, candied lime. A honeyed layer, crisp orchard fruit, salty tinge with a green apple pop at the finish. Try with Olivia's Gigante Beans for Joy on the Substack

Criante is a certified organic polyculture farm in Alcamo, Sicily- the western part of the island, in the province of Trapani. The Adragna family are the third generation to farm this land. 2019 was their first harvest under the moniker Criante, which incorporates all their farming activities.  

Criante’s operations are divided between 15 hectares of farmland (olives, legumes, eggs, heirloom Sicilian wheat and grains, fruit/vegetables including dry-farmed tomatoes) and 15 hectares of grapevines (Catarratto, Grillo, Nero d’Avola, Perricone).  They own Sicilì Bottega Biologica, a small food and wine market in downtown Alcamo, where they sell all their products as well as those from other like-minded Sicilian food and wine producers. 

A lot is spoken about the “potential” of the deep South of Italy.  Criante is part of a growing ferment of young estates inviting you experience that this promise has already been realized.