2022 Criante 'C22' Contrada Valle Catarratto Lucido Sicilia IGT

100% Catarratto Lucido planted in 2011, harvested in September. Destemmed, pressed, spontaneous fermentation and aged in stainless steel.  6,600 bottles made.

Catarratto is what we call a ‘neutral’ grape variety in that it is not aromatic. Chardonnay is also considered as such. Unfortunately, Catarratto’s supporting role in Etna Bianco wines has continued to enforce the notion that it adds simply acidity to the blend rather than any nuance. In western Sicily, there are a few producers investing in Catarratto as the headliner, and have completely opened up my mind to the grape’s potential. When treated properly, the grape offers a range of flavors and textures. Some old vine versions even reminded me of some top tier Chablis. The Criante version is full of yellow apple and chamomile. It has a savory herby note, backed with almond paste, finishing with a slightly oily texture and a subtle bitter melon finish.

Western Sicily is a warm, semi-arid zone.  It’s subject to the scirocco, an intensely hot wind coming off the Sahara, which can reach hurricane speeds.   And yet, native varieties like Catarratto (Sicily’s most-planted grape and Italy’s third-most) have adapted to this climate over millennia, seemingly dealing with climate change better than many famous grapes of Central and North Italy. Criante are Catarratto “specialists,” as they smartly tame its notorious yields and make three distinct wines from it, from each of the biotypes—Extralucido, Lucido, and Comune.  The expressiveness and freshness are remarkable.  

Criante is a certified organic polyculture farm in Alcamo, Sicily- the western part of the island, in the province of Trapani. The Adragna family are the third generation to farm this land. 2019 was their first harvest under the moniker Criante, which incorporates all their farming activities.  

Criante’s operations are divided between 15 hectares of farmland (olives, legumes, eggs, heirloom Sicilian wheat and grains, fruit/vegetables including dry-farmed tomatoes) and 15 hectares of grapevines (Catarratto, Grillo, Nero d’Avola, Perricone).  They own Sicilì Bottega Biologica, a small food and wine market in downtown Alcamo, where they sell all their products as well as those from other like-minded Sicilian food and wine producers. 

A lot is spoken about the “potential” of the deep South of Italy.  Criante is part of a growing ferment of young estates inviting you experience that this promise has already been realized.