2021 Girolamo Russo San Lorenzo Etna Bianco DOC

Made of a field blend from a single vineyard planted to 90% Carricante, the remaining 10% being other indigenous varieties including Catarratto and Grecanico. The vines were planted in about 1940, in the midst of red vines, at an elevation of about 750 meters (2,450 feet) above sea level. The fruit is harvested in the first half of October; after letting the grapes sit for about four hours to extract flavor from the skins they are pressed off, and the must is fermented and aged in used barriques and a used puncheon for about six months. 1200 bottles produced. 

The white expresses the above to a T, with high zingy, Ellittico soil acidity, but enough alcohol to round it out and make it a fleshier wine. The old barrique use shines through, but more like an afterthought. Russo wines often carry that burnt matchstick note- which we often attribute to reduction. But after tasting wines in this are for quite some years now, with special attention to Ellittico zones, could it be soil related? Jury is out, but I'm continuing down the rabbit hole to investigate.

Giuseppe Russo has cultivated his family's vines since 2005 and has 15 hectares of organic viticulture on the North side of Etna around the town of Passopisciaro. He is a visionary in that he follows the traditions of the Volcano, growing in the classic Alberello style while making some adjustment to modern day vine training, which he characterizes as "modified" Alberello. He also is extremely methodical and vinifies each vineyard separately, blending his wines to find the perfect balance before bottling. Additionally, he has been bottling single cru (contrada) Etna wines long before it was en vogue and now holds a name as one of the top producers on the Volcano.

His tightrope walk between traditional and modern winemaking make his style totally his own. He is certified organic, uses minimal sulfites, and the wines are unfiltered and unfined.