2017 Cantina della Volta Rose' Lambrusco (Sorbara)
Fancy Lambrusco? In this case, it's not an oxymoron!
Christian Bellei is the fourth generation of his family to cultivate Lambrusco vines and craft wine in Modena, a town in the Emilia half of Emilia-Romagna. Traditionally, Lambrusco is a sparkling wine not influenced by Champagne and the French fermentation in-bottle. For the most part, the Lambrusco denomination as a whole remains its traditional self. The Bellei family in their 4th generation iteration decided to pivot and began processing their grapes and wine as they do in Champagne. Additionally, they only work with the Lambrusco di Sorbara variety. The most common dark, inky Lambrusco comes from the Lambrusco Salamino variety. Sorbara is more difficult to grow, especially as it does not self pollinate! and needs the Salamino variety nearby to help it to actually produce.
The vineyards lie at 650m asl, which is rather unheard of in Emilia-Romagna. Surely, there are hills, but much of the cheaper Lambrusco we’re accustomed to comes from the lower lying areas. The elevation affords these grapes very high acid, a trademark of Champagne terroir and Champagne method wines.
This rose’ also stays on the fine lees for 42mo (a vintage Champagne must stay on those lees for a minimum of 36mo)- the lees age plus the overall age of this wine give us a slightly creamier texture, which offsets the otherwise racing acidity.