2015 Du Cropio “Damis” Ciro’ Rosso Riserva DOC

“Damis” comes from the more inland vineyards in Ciro', higher in elevation, and is a selection of grapes after harvest, 100% Gaglioppo. Along with a later picking, the juice stays in long contact with the skins, actually softening the tannin- or at least changing them from chonky and rustic, to more fine. 

Giuseppe Ippolito has some strong opinions. Firstly, that white wine isn't actually wine. Therefore, he only makes reds. Secondly, that since white wine isn't wine, his reds must pair with everything, including fish! If you ever have the pleasure of meeting him for a tasting, you will be welcomed to a spread of Calabrian cuisine, including tonno sotto olio (tuna preserved in oil), to prove that his wines pair with everything.

I love food. I especially love Calabrian cuisine, so naturally I couldn't help myself and went to town, so to speak. While I may have felt a touch uncomfortable with Giuseppe eagerly watching me as I ate the spread and sipped his wines, I must say...his wines are incredibly versatile.

Du Cropio in local dialect means “doctor of agronomy” and is a reference to Giuseppe Ippolito’s father who was an agronomist in the region, and wrote a book on viticulture.  The vineyards extend from Ciro’ Marina to Ciro’, which is more hilly and inland. The soil is a mix of clay and limestone,  and is poor with excellent drainage which is reinforced by the steeply sloped hillside vineyards. The vineyards are maintained according to organic principles with some of the vineyards now being worked by horse and plow. At harvest, the grapes are crushed and undergo the primary fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks; then, the wines are ultimately racked into large oak “botte” to age before being bottled. The wines are neither fined nor filtered and they are left to age further in bottle for at least 18 months before being released to the market. 

Along with ‘A Vita, it’s one of the few aged Ciro’ wines you can find on the market. Yields are controlled and low, and Giuseppe picks a touch later than others, giving his wines a bit more concentration and easier tannin- the Gaglioppo grape is notorious for its rough, difficult-to-manage tannin. The limestone in the soil and temperature shift at night, however, helps preserve the wines’ acidity. Grapes are left on the vine to mature longer than typical, to soften the tannin. Fruits are ripe, verging on dried and rasinated, but the balance is surprising. The wine is medium bodied, with lifted acid as well as dark cherry fruits and a distinct peppery note. Try with pork roasts, red meats, and hard cheeses. Would also work well with heavily spiced, Mediterranean dishes.